Carrot, fennel, yoghurt, orange blossom, tarragon 4

Carrot, fennel, yoghurt, orange blossom, tarragon
I’d been planning on doing this recipe a few weeks ago but one thing or another had stopped me from cooking it nevermind writing about it. As it happens, this was quite fortuitous because reading a post over on Conor Bofin’s excellent One Man’s Meat blog I was alerted to a competition Glenisk are running ...

Crab, asparagus, alexanders, samphire, spring onion 2

Crab, asparagus, alexanders, samphire, spring onion
Spring in Ireland may traditionally be said to begin in February but in the kitchen it really only starts in April. This is the month where we finally get to say goodbye to all those stews and root vegetables and lots of fresh greens start to become available (there’s only so much purple-sprouting broccoli you ...

Modernist Cauliflower Cheese

Modernist Cauliflower Cheese
Ever since I read about the famous Mac & Cheese in Modernist Cuisine I’ve wanted to apply it to the classic dish cauliflower Mornay. Their recipe helps solve a problem that plagues all béchamel based cheese sauces, namely, the starch and milk are not sufficiently good emulsifiers to allow you to add large amounts of ...

Venison, Chocolate, Sweet Potato, Kale, Celeriac, Girolles 2

Venison, Chocolate, Sweet Potato, Kale, Celeriac, Girolles
This is the first time I’ve had a chance to use the new season’s venison and I picked up a fabulous piece of loin in Ennis Butchers, Rialto, which I am lucky enough to have just around the corner from my house. As with pretty much all tender meat I cook now I did it ...

Beetroot, Fennel, Plum ‘Gnocchi’, Yoghurt 1

Beetroot, Fennel, Plum ‘Gnocchi’, Yoghurt
The inspiration for this came from a post on Kitchen 72 as I really liked the idea of pairing beetroot with fennel and a seasonal fruit. My recipe has gone through a few iterations but I’m happy now that it’s finally right. There’s a few modernist tricks I’ve mentioned before, like fluid gels, and also a ...

Basil And Pine Nut ‘Risotto’

Basil And Pine Nut ‘Risotto’
I normally hate seeing things listed on a menu with inverted commas but I can’t really think of another title without it sounding even more wanky, e.g., ‘deconstructed pesto’ so it’ll have to do. Nomenclature aside, it’s another recipe inspired by Modernist Cuisine where you make risotto-like dishes from grains other than rice or in ...

The Greenhouse

Ever since it was announced that Mickael Viljanen would be moving to Dublin to cook in The Greenhouse I’ve really been looking forward to eating his food again; the meal I’d had in his previous restaurant, Gregans, was outstanding and given the reviews I’d been reading of the new venture, I didn’t expect to be ...

Red Gurnard, Tarragon, Celery, Broad Beans, Samphire, Cucumber, Butter 3

Red Gurnard, Tarragon, Celery, Broad Beans, Samphire, Cucumber, Butter
The whole point of this recipe was to keep things as light and fresh as possible: I picked lots of cooling and refreshing ingredients and tried to find novel ways of processing and presenting them. And to do this I revisited some modernist techniques I’ve used previously and a new one I’d been looking to ...

Broccoli, Peas, Broad Beans, Samphire, Radish, Sorrel, Hazelnut 2

Broccoli, Peas, Broad Beans, Samphire, Radish, Sorrel, Hazelnut
It’s been a while since I’ve posted a more technically demanding recipe, mainly because most of the new things I’ve been trying haven’t produced good enough results and weren’t worth writing about. I’ve been experimenting a lot with modernist techniques like reverse spherification and it’s just taken me a while to become somewhat comfortable using ...

Smoked Ham Hock, Parsnip And Split Pea Soup 2

Smoked Ham Hock, Parsnip And Split Pea Soup
Ever since I read on the Stitch And Bear blog about Byrne’s in Phibsborough selling smoked ham hocks I’ve wanted to pay a visit to get some for making this soup but it was only last Saturday that I finally got a chance to visit the shop. It’s actually a remarkable place, the first thing ...