Spring Quinoa Salad

Spring Quinoa Salad
In part three of a two part series I never intended on writing, here is yet another quinoa salad recipe. What’s happened with these is that as the year has gone on I’ve changed the dish depending on what’s in season, with the only constant being the grain and a yoghurt based sauce. And given ...

Rose veal, asparagus, chanterelles, wild garlic, fondant potato, porcini sauce 2

Rose veal, asparagus, chanterelles, wild garlic, fondant potato, porcini sauce
I would really love to have made this recipe with morels but I couldn’t even find the dried ones here in Dublin last week never mind fresh so I had to make do with substituting chanterelles and porcini instead. The dried porcini sauce was actually very easy to prepare yet intensely flavoured even though it ...

Fade Street Social

As new openings go, Fade Street Social was one of the most hyped of the year and judging by how full it was when we arrived that hype hasn’t really died down very much. The atmosphere is buzzy, there’s pumping music playing – but not so loud you can’t have a conversation – and the ...

Bison Bar 8

I’m fairly sure Bison Bar is the first place in Ireland to provide anything resembling proper American BBQ and even my use of the the word ‘American’ glosses over the huge regional differences that exist between the various traditions, not only between states but within them too. I don’t claim to know very much about ...

Crab, asparagus, alexanders, samphire, spring onion 2

Crab, asparagus, alexanders, samphire, spring onion
Spring in Ireland may traditionally be said to begin in February but in the kitchen it really only starts in April. This is the month where we finally get to say goodbye to all those stews and root vegetables and lots of fresh greens start to become available (there’s only so much purple-sprouting broccoli you ...

W.J. Kavanaghs

I’m a big of L. Mulligan’s Grocer in Stoneybatter and when they opened a sister gastropub on Dorset Street I resolved to eat there as soon as I got the chance. That was over a year ago and it’s only now I’ve actually managed to get there. This is what happens when your wife is ...

Sprouting broccoli, wild garlic, alexanders, salsify, buckwheat, hollandaise

Sprouting broccoli, wild garlic, alexanders, salsify, buckwheat, hollandaise
I know the whole foraging thing has become somewhat of a cliché by now but there is something great about the wild ingredients that crop up at spring time. I’ve written about wild garlic and nettles several times but never alexanders, which to my mind taste like a floral celery and since Roman times have ...

Modernist Cauliflower Cheese

Modernist Cauliflower Cheese
Ever since I read about the famous Mac & Cheese in Modernist Cuisine I’ve wanted to apply it to the classic dish cauliflower Mornay. Their recipe helps solve a problem that plagues all béchamel based cheese sauces, namely, the starch and milk are not sufficiently good emulsifiers to allow you to add large amounts of ...

Socca, Mushrooms, Parsnip, Smoked Bacon

Socca, Mushrooms, Parsnip, Smoked Bacon
It may be a week late for Pancake Tuesday but I’ve actually been meaning to try these crepes from Southern France for a long time. Originally a peasant dish originating in Genoa comprising just chickpea flour, olive oil and water, I first read about them in the Balthazar cookbook (you can even see my copy ...

Pho Viet

Ever since Ho Sen in Temple Bar closed down a few years ago there had been no exclusively Vietnamese restaurant in Dublin and, of the various pan-Asian offerings in the city, only Saba served the famous Vietnamese soup pho (Neon were selling something labelled as such but they’ve since, correctly, rebranded it as Thai Beef ...