This recipe was inspired by a trip to Fallon & Byrne where I saw they were selling different coloured baby beetroots and then at the meat counter racks of Irish milk fed goat. I’ve written about the combination of lamb and elderflower before and given that goat has a similar, albeit stronger, flavour I knew it would work as a substitution.
I butchered the rack in the same way as here by removing the tender eye of loin muscle and poaching it in the water bath. The piece of meat I was left with was only around 2cm in width so it didn’t take very long to cook and the trimmings left over went into the pressure cooker to make a stock for the sauce.
For the flower components, I made a fluid gel from shop-bought elderflower cordial; I intended to serve this hot but for some reason the end product was runnier than usual when warmed. After a bit of investigation I found that heat can cause agar to break down in acidic solutions and the cordial was definitely quite acidic on account of it being concentrated.
I then garnished the plate with borage and nasturtium petals (there was a beautiful mixture of red, yellow and orange ones) I’d bought at the Sonairte stand in the Dublin Food Coop. If you are looking for edible flowers this is place to get them as they always have a few bags every week throughout the summer; I normally stir them through salads if I’ve any left over.
For the goat:
1 rack of goat, deboned, eye of loin reserved
Grape seed oil
For the sauce
Bones and trimmings from deboning the rack
30g shallots, diced
15g carrot, diced
15g celery, diced
1 small bay leaf
1 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs parsley
150ml veal stock
2ml sherry vinegar
For the beetroot:
3 baby golden beetroot
3 baby red golden beetroot
1 baby candy stripe beetroot, thinly sliced
Grape seed oil
15ml balsamic apple cider vinegar
For the elderflower fluid gel
100ml elderflower cordial
0.4g xanthan gum
For the carrot puree
150g carrots, diced
For the flowers
Petals from 3 nasturtium flowers
12 small nasturtium leaves
6 borage flowers
- Season the eye of loin and seal in a vacuum bag.
- Place in a temperature controlled water bath at 55.5°C for 45 minutes (this depends on thickness so check the Baldwin tables for a precise time).
- For the sauce, heat a frying pan over a high heat and when hot add some oil.
- Brown any meat trimmings and, when done, place in a pressure cooker with the shallots, carrot, celery, bay leaf, peppercorns, thyme and parsley.
- Pour in approximately 1l of water and place the lid on the cooker.
- Bring up to full pressure and cook for an hour.
- Take off the heat and allow to depressurise naturally.
- Strain the liquid from the pressure cooker through a fine sieve and reserve.
- Heat a sauce pan over a medium heat and pour in the white wine.
- Simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated and then add the veal stock the reserved goat stock.
- Simmer the sauce until reduced by two thirds.
- Take off the heat and stir in the butter.
- Add the sherry vinegar and season with salt and pepper if necessary. Reserve and keep warm.
- For the baby beetroot, preheat the oven to 180°C.
- Wrap the red and golden beetroot individually in tinfoil with a splash of oil each.
- Roast in the oven for half an hour.
- Remove the beets from the tinfoil and rub off the skin. Keep the different red beetroots separate so they do not bleed their colour onto the yellow one.
- Toss the beets in the balsamic apple cider vinegar and keep warm.
- For the elderflower fluid gel, bring the elderflower cordial and water to the boil and whisk in the agar.
- Continue to whisk until the agar has completely melted and been hydrated, around 5 minutes.
- Add the xanthan gum and elderflower mixture to a blender and pulse briefly to hydrate the gum. Take care not introduce much air in the process.
- Place the liquid in the fridge and allow to set.
- When set, place the jelly in a blender and blend to a smooth a smooth puree (you may need to add a bit of elderflower cordial to get it to pass over the blades). Reserve at room temperature.
- For the carrot puree, simmer the carrots in water until tender, around 10 minutes depending on the size of the dice.
- Place the carrots in a blender and blend to a smooth puree (you may need to add a bit of the cooking water to get it to pass over the blades).
- Add the butter and blend until fully incorporated.
- Season if required. Reserve and keep warm.
- Place a dry frying pan over a high heat for around five minutes until very hot.
- Take the goat from the water bath and remove from the vacuum bag.
- Pat dry and season the meat.
- Add some grape seed oil to the pan and brown the goat all over (roughly 30 seconds per side). Slice into 10 2cm rounds.
- To plate, place five of the rounds of goat down the middle of the plate; place 4 blobs of carrot puree in between the meat; pour some the sauce over the goat; place the beetroot quarters in between the meat and carrot puree; dot some of the elderflower gel around the beetroot; garnish with the edible flowers and candy stripe beetroot slices.