Jamie’s Italian

I’d normally be very wary of dining in chain restaurants and although it seems like Jamie Oliver wants to do the right thing in his ventures I was still somewhat sceptical when we booked a table for my dad’s sixtieth birthday. There was a large group of us (sixteen in total) so we only had ...

M & L Chinese Restaurant

This is just a very short review of a quick lunch I had last week but which started on Twitter last month. That probably doesn’t make much sense so allow me to explain: I am quite thoroughly addicted to the combination of Sichuan peppercorns and chilli (known as málà in Chinese) and one of my ...

Winter Quinoa Salad 2

Winter Quinoa Salad
This salad is a winter take on a previous recipe and as I said in that post it is heavily influenced by Yottam Ottolenghi; once again I’ve used one of his sauces pretty much wholesale, this time a version of baba ganoush given a lovely burst of sweetness and acidity by the addition of pomegranate ...

The Library

I was recently invited to a bloggers night at the new(ish) restaurant in Dandelion Bar on Stephen’s Green as they were revamping their menu and wanted to get some feedback. It’s the first time I’ve done anything like this and I know as a reader I’m always a bit wary when I read posts about ...

The Boathouse, Bangor 2

We were visiting friends in Belfast a few weeks ago and decided to take advantage of our trip to try a restaurant I’d read about in The Irish Times a few months ago. The place is run by two Dutch guys, Joery Castel who’s head chef and his brother Jasper who is front of house. ...

Venison, Chocolate, Sweet Potato, Kale, Celeriac, Girolles 2

Venison, Chocolate, Sweet Potato, Kale, Celeriac, Girolles
This is the first time I’ve had a chance to use the new season’s venison and I picked up a fabulous piece of loin in Ennis Butchers, Rialto, which I am lucky enough to have just around the corner from my house. As with pretty much all tender meat I cook now I did it ...

Crab, Corn And Saffron Risotto

Crab, Corn And Saffron Risotto
There’s a lot of myths surrounding risotto and the most persistent, which I am as guilty of perpetuating as anyone, is the need to stir continuously to help gradually rub off the starch contained within the grains of rice. An article I recently read on Serious Eats put this to the test and found that ...

Beetroot, Fennel, Plum ‘Gnocchi’, Yoghurt 1

Beetroot, Fennel, Plum ‘Gnocchi’, Yoghurt
The inspiration for this came from a post on Kitchen 72 as I really liked the idea of pairing beetroot with fennel and a seasonal fruit. My recipe has gone through a few iterations but I’m happy now that it’s finally right. There’s a few modernist tricks I’ve mentioned before, like fluid gels, and also a ...

Bacon And Cabbage Orzotto 2

Bacon And Cabbage Orzotto
I entered this recipe in the Goodalls Modern Irish Cookbook competition and unfortunately it wasn’t selected so I thought I’d post a version of it here. An orzotto is what’s commonly referred to as a barley risotto and I’d been toying with doing a riff on the Irish classic bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce for ...

Terre Madre 2

I’ve been looking forward to trying Terre Madre having heard so many good things about it but it’s taken me far too long to actually get around to eating there. Luckily, I’d a day off work after the Bank Holiday in August so I took my chance and it was worth the wait. The restaurant ...